Body Armor 4x4

Elevated Third Brake Light Setup for YJ, TJ, and JK Wranglers

Elevated Third Brake Light Setup for YJ, TJ, and JK Wranglers

By Body Armor 4x4 | Published: 2026-10-13

Category: How-to Guides

A step-by-step guide to relocating your Jeep Wrangler third brake light above oversized tires, including wiring, mounting, and legal checks.

Quick answer

If you run 35-inch or larger tires, the factory third brake light often hides behind the spare. The fix is an elevated third brake light that bolts to the tailgate using existing holes and sits high enough to be seen. For YJ, TJ, and JK Wranglers, a bolt-on kit like the Body Armor 4x4 Elevated Third Brake Light simplifies the job: it reuses factory mounting points, includes a DOT LED, and works with tires over 37 inches. Plan on about an hour for the install, plus a quick wiring check.

Why elevation matters more than brightness

A bigger spare tire blocks the stock third brake light from the view of drivers behind you. Raising the light restores that line of sight without adding a separate bar or cutting into the tailgate. The goal is not just a brighter lamp; it is placing the lamp where it can be seen over the tire. Most states require a third brake light to be visible from a set distance, and an obscured light can fail inspection or leave you liable in a rear-end collision. An elevated light solves both the practical and legal sides of that problem. The Body Armor 4x4 kit uses a DOT LED, which means the light source itself meets federal standards for brightness and color.

Check your tailgate and tire size before you buy

Not every tailgate is the same. YJ, TJ, and JK models have different tailgate contours and hole patterns. The Body Armor 4x4 Elevated Third Brake Light is designed to bolt to existing holes on all three generations, but you should still confirm that your spare tire carrier or any aftermarket bumper does not cover those holes. Also measure your tire: the kit is built to be seen over 37-inch tires, so if you run a 40-inch tire with a deep-dish wheel, you may need additional spacing. If your Jeep has a body lift or a swing-out tire carrier, test-fit the light before tightening everything down.

Wiring: keep it simple and protected

The factory third brake light wiring runs along the tailgate. You will tap into the brake light circuit, not the running light circuit, so the elevated light only comes on when you brake. Use a test light or multimeter to confirm the correct wire. Solder and heat-shrink your connections rather than using crimp connectors, which can corrode. Route the new wire through the existing grommet in the tailgate and secure it with zip ties so it does not pinch when the tailgate opens and closes. If you are not comfortable with wiring, a plug-and-play harness may be available separately, but the Body Armor 4x4 kit does not include one.

Step-by-step elevated third brake light install

  1. 1. Disconnect the battery: Remove the negative terminal from your battery before touching any wiring. This prevents shorts and blown fuses while you work on the brake light circuit. Checkpoint: the radio and clock should reset when you reconnect, confirming you had a good disconnect.
  2. 2. Remove the factory third brake light: Unbolt the stock light from the tailgate and unplug its connector. Keep the hardware; you may need it if you ever return to stock. On some JK models, the light is integrated into the spare tire mount, so you may need to remove the spare first. Common mistake: forcing the connector apart instead of pressing the release tab, which can break the plastic clip.
  3. 3. Test-fit the elevated bracket: Hold the new bracket against the tailgate and align it with the existing holes. Do not tighten anything yet. Check that the bracket clears the spare tire and that the light head sits above the tire's top edge. Checkpoint: with the tailgate closed, have a helper stand 20 feet behind the Jeep and confirm the light is visible over the tire.
  4. 4. Splice the wiring: Locate the brake light wire in the tailgate harness. Use a test light to confirm it gets power only when the brake pedal is pressed. Cut, strip, and solder the new light's positive wire to that circuit. Ground the negative wire to a clean metal point on the tailgate. Common mistake: tapping the running light wire instead of the brake wire, which makes the third light stay on constantly.
  5. 5. Secure and protect the wiring: Route the new wire alongside the factory harness and secure it with zip ties every 6 to 8 inches. Leave a small service loop near the hinge so the wire does not stretch when the tailgate opens. Slide heat-shrink tubing over each solder joint and shrink it with a heat gun. Checkpoint: open and close the tailgate several times and watch for any pulling or pinching.
  6. 6. Mount the light and torque hardware: Bolt the bracket to the tailgate using the supplied hardware. Tighten the bolts snugly, but do not overtighten, which can crack the powder coat or deform the tailgate metal. Reconnect the battery and test the brake light with a helper pressing the pedal. Common mistake: overtightening the bolts and stripping the threads in the tailgate.
  7. 7. Final visibility check: With the spare tire installed, stand behind the Jeep at 10, 20, and 30 feet. The light should be clearly visible at each distance. If it is blocked, adjust the bracket angle or add a small spacer. Check that the light does not interfere with the tailgate swing or the rear window. Next step: if you frequently tow or carry a bike rack, confirm the rack does not block the new light position.

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